Let's make a coat - Part 4

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Assembling

Next step in making a coat is to put all the pieces together. I look a this part like a bit puzzle. 

Step 1. Put interlining on the parts thet need it. 



Let's use this as an example. In magazines like Burda there is step by step guide on how to make a garment. In that guide there is always a picture on how to cut the fabric (red squere). When making a coat, or any garment that requires interlining, on that picture will be shown (dark grey) parts on which interlining goes. 
Most of the time interlining goes in both front parts and collar. Some other parts if necessary. 
Interlining goes on parts that need some structure. 

Step 2. Sewing long seames

I always start with front part and than any other long seame (red lines).



My preffered method is to start sewing from top to bottom. If I make a mistake it will show on the bottom. One part will be longer, that means you have to go back and try to put it together again.

Step 3. Collar and sleeve

Collar is one of the hardest parts to put in. And this time I decided to go with Russian collar. It is easier to get in that other big collars. 
Best way to learn how to put in collar is to try. That is how I learned. There is bunch of videos on youtube on how that goes. To be honest I am still surprised every time I get it right.

If you think that collar is hard, try to make sleeve look good. My why of puting in sleeves is to gather upper part of the sleeve ( red square) and sewing it in.


It workes every time. Now is sleeve going a bit front or back I don't know. And in this stage of my sewing experience knowing how to do that would be a miricle.

Step 4. Hood and cloak

Now this part is optional. 
For my hood and cloak I just watched this youtube video. 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z9VBF0sX27I
It was really helpfull. My cloak is not that long so I just adjusted the measures.

Step 5. Buttons 

In total my coat has 8 buttons. 5 in front and 3 to hold the hood. 
On my machine there is option for making buttonholes. (red square)


I will make a blog about how I use it. 

Step 6. Mistakes 

Let' talk about this for a moment. As you can see up to this point I don't have pockets. Trying to figure out what type of pockets to put on a coat was a long process. In the end I settle down on just a regulat hidden pockets. But what does that mean. Let me tell you. That means that I have to go back and rip my seams open to insert the pockets. 
Normally, with this type of pocket as you are sewing the seams you are sewing the pocket too. 

Step 7. Lining

Lining is story for it self. I am still learning how to put it in. 
It is assembled the same way as the coat. And once that is done it is inserted in. I don't really know how to explain that part because I always strugle with it. I think it's better if I don't even try to explain. One day when I get it I'll make a blog about it.

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